Friday, July 2, 2010

Florence

After two days in traffic-free Venice, it took some time getting used the buzzing traffic of Florence.
Unfortunately, we were already used to the masses of people moving around the inner city, many of whom were speaking American English. We probably encountered more Americans in Florence than any other place on our trip thus far.
Those were the only negatives in Florence, however.
First of all, we basically got our hotel room free for two nights. When I booked all of our hostels and budget hotels, I had to pay 10 percent to reserve the room and pay the balance upon arrival.
In Florence, the hotel staff marked that it had already charged my debit card before we arrived, but no charge could be found online.
The staff also recommended a great restaurant not far from the hotel.
It was located just down the street in what appeared to be an Indian or Middle Eastern neighborhood, not exactly the type of street you’d normally walk down to find a traditional Italian meal.
But we’ve found that those are exactly the sorts of streets that have the best local food enjoyed by local people.
For 12 euros apiece, Sam and I had a traditional Italian meal that included a first course of pasta, a second meat course, an accompanying vegetable side, bread and a quarter liter of wine each.
Sam had tortellini with tomato cream sauce, chicken breast pieces with a rosemary butter sauce, green beans and white wine. I had penne arribbiata (a tomato sauce with spicy red peppers), marinated steak strips with green lettuce and shaved Parmesan cheese, mixed, butter-boiled vegetables and red wine.
It was excellent, and was, by far, our best meal in Italy.
At least until the next night, where we dined just down the street at another trattoria, or Italian restaurant serving simple food.
This place didn’t even have a menu. The waiter, an older gentleman who looked like the owner, just described the first, second and vegetable courses in simple English from memory.
Sam had spinach and cheese filled ravioli with pesto, braised chicken on the bone with an onion and beer sauce, French fries (she mistakenly thought they’d be boiled potatoes) and white wine.
I had linguine with a meat tomato sauce, roasted rabbit on the bone with rosemary, a mixed salad and red wine.
We ate very well for pretty cheap in Florence.
As for sightseeing, we toured the gigantic Duomo, or cathedral, that sits in the heart of old Florence.
This was actually the first church we’ve seen that’s more impressive outside than in.
The outside is adorned with green and white marble, a red dome and dozens of statues. We spent a good amount of time walking around the outside of the church.
Inside, however, is a bit disappointing.
The walls are fairly plain and there are only a handful of marble statues. Frescoes were painted on the inside of the dome, but the extravagance ended there.
From the church we walked across the city’s main bridge and up to the Pitti Palace where we toured the huge gardens of the Medici residence.
It was a nice reprieve from the hordes of people on the main city streets.

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